I still remember the smell of diesel and desert dust as the ancient locomotive shuddered to life. We were at Amman's Mahatta station, about to embark on a journey that felt like stepping into a time machine. Train travel in Jordan isn't just about getting from A to B—it's about experiencing a slice of history that most tourists overlook.
Jordan's railway network is a shadow of its former self, but that's precisely what makes it fascinating. The Hejaz Railway, built by the Ottomans over a century ago, once connected Damascus to Mecca. Today, only remnants remain, but several scenic and historical routes still operate, offering a unique way to see the country.
Why Train Travel in Jordan Is Worth It
Let's be honest: Jordan's trains aren't going to win any speed awards. They're slow, often late, and the network is limited. But if you're a traveler who values experience over efficiency, you'll love it. The carriages are vintage, the views are raw, and you'll likely be the only foreigner on board—which is exactly the point.
Plus, with a Jordan Pass, you can save on visa fees and entry to major sites like Petra and Jerash. Just note that the pass doesn't cover train tickets, so budget separately for those.
The Main Routes: Where You Can Actually Go
Jordan's passenger rail service is minimal. There are no cross-country high-speed lines. Instead, you have a few options, mostly for tourists or special excursions.
1. The Hejaz Railway: Amman to Al-Jizah
This is the classic Jordan train travel experience. Operated by the Jordan Hejaz Railway Corporation, a vintage train departs from Amman's Mahatta station (also home to the Royal Automobile Museum) on Fridays and Saturdays, chugging through the desert to the small town of Al-Jizah.
The journey takes about two hours each way. You'll pass through arid landscapes, see Bedouin camps, and get a sense of what travel was like a century ago. The train itself is a restored relic, with wooden benches and open windows—perfect for photography.
Tip: Buy tickets at the station a day in advance. They often sell out, especially in spring and autumn. The cost is around 10 JOD for foreigners (about $14).
2. The Aqaba Railway: Aqaba to Wadi Rum
This is a freight line that occasionally runs passenger excursions, usually during peak tourist seasons. The route skirts the dramatic desert of Wadi Rum, offering views that most travelers only see from a 4x4. If you can snag a spot on one of these special runs, it's unforgettable.
However, these trips are irregular and often announced last minute. Check with the Aqaba Railway Corporation or local tour operators. Don't count on it as your primary transport.
3. The Jordan Valley Line: Amman to Irbid (Limited Service)
There's a sporadic service between Amman and Irbid in the north, primarily used by students and locals. It's not designed for tourists, but if you're adventurous and want to see a different side of Jordan, it's an option. The schedule is erratic, so ask at the station.
How to Book Tickets for Jordan Train Travel
Booking train tickets in Jordan is old-school. There's no online system for most routes. You'll need to go to the station in person or call. For the Hejaz Railway, you can purchase tickets at Mahatta station in Amman. For other services, inquire at the relevant railway office.
Bring cash—Jordanian dinars. Credit cards are rarely accepted. And don't expect English-speaking staff at every counter; a few words of Arabic go a long way.
Practical Tips for Riding the Rails in Jordan
- Best time to go: Spring (March–May) and autumn (September–November) offer comfortable temperatures. Summer is scorching, and winter can be chilly in the desert.
- What to wear: Dress modestly, especially if you're off the tourist trail. Comfortable shoes are a must. Sunscreen and a hat are essential.
- Food and water: Bring your own snacks and plenty of water. There are no dining cars, and vendors are scarce.
- Schedule flexibility: Jordanian trains are not known for punctuality. Plan for delays and don't book tight connections.
- Photography: Always ask before taking photos of people, especially in more conservative areas.
Beyond the Train: Connecting to Other Destinations
Since the rail network is limited, you'll likely combine train travel with other transport. From Amman, you can easily hire a car or take a bus to Petra, Jerash, or the Dead Sea. If you're heading to Aqaba, the JETT bus is faster and more reliable than the train.
For those interested in more extensive rail adventures, consider combining a visit to Jordan with train travel in neighboring countries like Turkey or Egypt. But that's a story for another time.
Is Jordan Train Travel for You?
If you're a purist who wants to see every country by rail, Jordan will test your patience. But if you approach it as a historical experience rather than a practical transport option, you'll be rewarded. There's something magical about watching the sun set over the desert from a rattling carriage that once carried pilgrims and soldiers.
So go. Buy that ticket. And don't forget to bring a good book for the delays.