You’ll spot the first clue before you even clear customs at Nursultan Nazarbayev International Airport: a display of tiny felt yurts, each one no bigger than a teapot, lined up like a miniature steppe encampment. It’s a charming welcome, but resist the urge to buy there. The real Astana souvenirs are hiding in plain sight—in the vaulted aisles of a bazaar, the cluttered shelves of a museum gift shop, and the ateliers of local artisans who still work with wool, silver, and leather the way their grandparents did.
I’ve spent the better part of a decade poking around Central Asian markets, and Astana’s craft scene has evolved dramatically. Twenty years ago, you’d be lucky to find a decent shyrdak outside of a state-run store. Today, a new generation of makers is reinventing Kazakhstan handicrafts with a modern sensibility, while keeping the old techniques alive. Here’s what to buy, where to find it, and how not to get ripped off.
Felt, Wool, and the Art of the Steppe
The single most iconic Kazakhstan handicraft is felt. Nomads have been rolling and pressing wool into sturdy textiles for millennia, and you’ll see it everywhere: slippers, hats, bags, even entire yurts. The best pieces come from villages in the south, but Astana’s shops stock a solid selection.
Shyrdak and Tekemet Rugs
These aren’t your grandmother’s Persian carpets. A shyrdak is made by sewing together two layers of felt with a colorful, often symmetrical pattern—think bold reds, blues, and yellows. A tekemet is pressed wool with a rolled design, usually in softer, earthier tones. Both are lightweight and fold flat, which makes them surprisingly easy to pack. A small shyrdak (about 1x1.5 meters) will set you back 25,000–50,000 tenge ($50–100). Larger ones can run into the hundreds.
Where to buy: The Astana Mall has a couple of reputable craft stores, but for better prices and more variety, head to the Almaty Bazaar (yes, it’s named after the old capital) on the city’s outskirts. Go on a weekday morning when the vendors are fresh and more willing to bargain.
Felt Slippers and Hats
These are the perfect practical souvenir. Felt slippers are warm, breathable, and cost around 3,000–6,000 tenge. I bought a pair five years ago and they’ve survived countless winters. The hats—especially the traditional kalpak with its pointed top—are another classic. A handmade kalpak in natural white or grey felt is about 8,000–15,000 tenge. Just be aware: if you wear one in the city, you’ll get a few knowing smiles from locals. It’s a bit like wearing a cowboy hat in downtown Dallas.
Silver and Leather: Nomadic Adornments
Kazakh jewelry is having a moment. Young designers are taking traditional motifs—ram’s horns, sunbursts, stylized eagle feathers—and casting them in silver with a minimalist twist. You’ll find everything from delicate pendants to chunky cuff bracelets.
Look for pieces stamped with the Kazakh state hallmark (a stylized leopard head). Silver content is usually 925. Prices range from 10,000 tenge for a simple ring to 80,000+ for an elaborate necklace. The Kazakh Eli Gallery inside the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation often hosts pop-up craft fairs where you can meet the makers. And if you’re in town during Nauryz (March 21–23), the city center erupts in a festival of crafts—that’s prime hunting ground.
Leather goods are another standout. Wallets, belts, and handbags tooled with geometric patterns make excellent gifts. A well-made leather wallet costs 5,000–12,000 tenge. Avoid the cheap, flimsy stuff sold near tourist landmarks; instead, check out Zere, a local brand with a shop in Keruen Mall. Their leather is supple and the stitching is impeccable.
Tea, Sweets, and Edible Souvenirs
You can’t leave without stuffing your suitcase with Kazakh foodstuffs. They’re affordable, pack well, and give your friends a taste of the steppe.
- Kazakh tea—black tea blended with herbs like thyme or oregano. A box costs 800–1,500 tenge.
- Chocolate—the Kazakhstan brand (yes, that’s the name) makes surprisingly good dark chocolate with local berries. 500–1,000 tenge per bar.
- Baursak—fried dough balls, usually sold in bags. They’re best fresh, but the packaged version keeps for weeks. 300–600 tenge.
- Honey—from the Altai Mountains, sold in jars at any supermarket. 2,000–4,000 tenge.
Pro tip: Buy your edible souvenirs at Small or Magnum supermarkets, not at the airport. The markup at the airport is criminal.
Where to Shop: A Neighborhood Guide
Astana is a sprawling city, and the shopping scene is spread out. Here’s where to focus your energy.
Keruen Mall and Astana Mall
These two malls, both on the left bank, are your best bet for one-stop souvenir shopping. Keruen has a dedicated craft section on the second floor with a good mix of felt, silver, and leather. Astana Mall is slightly more upscale, with a few designer boutiques. Prices are fixed, but you’re paying for convenience.
Almaty Bazaar
For the real deal, take a taxi to Almaty Bazaar (about 20 minutes from the city center). It’s a chaotic, sprawling market where you can find everything from fresh produce to car parts. The craft section is in the back-left corner. Vendors here expect you to haggle—start at half the asking price and work your way up. I once bought a beautiful hand-stitched shyrdak for 30% less than the initial quote just by feigning disinterest and walking away. It’s a game, and it’s fun.
Museum Gift Shops
The National Museum of Kazakhstan has an excellent gift shop with high-quality, curated items—think books on Kazakh history, replica jewelry, and felt toys. Prices are a bit higher, but the quality is guaranteed. The Kazakh Eli Gallery also has a small shop with rotating artisan collections.
Etiquette and Practical Tips
Before you whip out your wallet, keep these pointers in mind.
- Cash is king. Many small vendors don’t accept cards. Carry tenge in small denominations.
- Bargaining is expected at bazaars, not in malls. Be polite—a smile and a compliment on the craftsmanship go a long way.
- Customs. Most handicrafts are fine to export, but if you’re buying anything antique (over 50 years old), you’ll need a permit from the Ministry of Culture. Avoid anything that looks like a historical artifact unless you have paperwork.
- Shipping. If you buy a large rug, ask the vendor about shipping. Many have reliable contacts with DHL or local couriers. It’s cheaper than paying for extra luggage.
And one last thing: don’t overlook the humble tush kyiz—a large, embroidered wall hanging traditionally made for a daughter’s dowry. They’re stunning, and a small one can cost as little as 20,000 tenge. I have one hanging in my living room, and it’s the first thing guests ask about.
Astana may be a futuristic city of glass and steel, but its soul is still woven from wool and silver. Take home a piece of it, and you’ll carry the steppe with you long after you’ve left.