Autumn Colors in Ankara: A Photographer's Dream
The first time I photographed Ankara in autumn, I missed the shot. I was in the old citadel, framing the Ankara skyline through a Roman arch, when a gust of wind sent a swirl of yellow poplar leaves across my lens. By the time I wiped it clean, the light had shifted. But that's Ankara autumn for you—fleeting, golden, and utterly photogenic.
Most travelers flock to Istanbul or Cappadocia in October, leaving Ankara's autumn streets blissfully uncrowded. And that's fine by me. Because fall in Ankara is a quiet spectacle: the city's 5,000-year-old history wrapped in a palette of amber, russet, and gold. Here's why you should pack your camera and come see for yourself.
Why Ankara Shines in Autumn
Ankara sits on the Anatolian plateau, about 900 meters above sea level. That altitude means crisp mornings, warm afternoons, and a light that photographers call "hard but forgiving"—sharp enough to define textures, soft enough to flatter faces. In October, the angle of the sun drops lower each day, casting long shadows across the city's honey-colored stone buildings.
And the trees. Oh, the trees. The city is lined with poplars, plane trees, and maples that turn in late September and peak around mid-October. The result is a city that feels like it's glowing from within. I've shot autumn in Vermont and Kyoto, and Ankara holds its own—not with the same scale, but with a grittier, more layered beauty. Here, golden leaves frame Ottoman minarets and Soviet-style apartment blocks in the same viewfinder.
The Best Photography Spots for Fall in Ankara
You don't need a guidebook to find autumn color in Ankara—just follow the light. But these spots consistently deliver.
Ankara Citadel (Ankara Kalesi)
The citadel is the city's crown, and in autumn it's a masterclass in contrast. The ancient stone walls, weathered to a warm gray, set off the fiery red of ivy climbing the ramparts. Climb to the top for a panoramic view of the city: the Kocatepe Mosque's minarets piercing a sky of deep October blue, the distant poplars lining the boulevards like rows of golden candles.
Tip: Arrive an hour before sunset. The light hits the western walls and turns everything to bronze. Bring a wide-angle lens for the vistas and a 50mm for details—like the pomegranate trees growing in the courtyards.
Gençlik Parkı
This central park is a local favorite, and in October it's a riot of color. The lake reflects the turning trees, and the old-fashioned tea gardens are perfect for a mid-morning break. I spent a happy hour there photographing a group of retirees playing backgammon under a canopy of yellow leaves. They didn't mind—one of them even offered me a glass of çay.
Tip: The park is busiest on weekends, but early mornings on weekdays are tranquil. Bring a zoom lens to capture candid moments without intruding.
Kocatepe Mosque
You might not think of a mosque as an autumn destination, but the grounds of Kocatepe are planted with maples that turn a brilliant crimson. The juxtaposition of the modern Ottoman-style architecture—all domes and minarets—against the fiery foliage is stunning. I shot a series here of the mosque reflected in a puddle after a rain shower, the leaves floating like confetti.
Tip: Visit during prayer times for dramatic light inside, but be respectful and avoid photographing worshippers without permission.
Atatürk's Mausoleum (Anıtkabir)
Anıtkabir is a pilgrimage site for Turks, but it's also a photographer's dream in autumn. The long, tree-lined approach is flanked by poplars that turn gold in October, creating a natural leading line to the monumental structure. The scale is immense—bring a wide lens and be prepared to wait for a moment without tour groups.
Tip: The changing of the guard happens every few hours; check the schedule and position yourself for a shot of the guards marching through the leaves.
Eymir Lake
A short drive south of the city, Eymir Lake is where Ankarans go to escape. In autumn, the surrounding hills are covered in oak and pine, with splashes of yellow and red. The lake itself is calm, reflecting the sky and the turning trees. I rented a bike and cycled around the lake, stopping every few minutes to shoot. The air smelled of pine and woodsmoke.
Tip: The light is best in the late afternoon. Bring a polarizing filter to cut glare on the water and deepen the colors.
Practical Tips for Photographing Ankara in Autumn
Autumn in Ankara is short—roughly late September to early November—so timing matters. Here's what you need to know.
- When to go: Peak color usually hits around mid-October. The first two weeks of October are your best bet for a mix of green and gold. By early November, most leaves are down.
- Weather: Days are mild (15–20°C), but mornings and evenings can be chilly (5–10°C). Pack layers. Rain is occasional but can be heavy; a waterproof camera bag is essential.
- Light: The sun rises around 7am and sets by 6pm in October. Golden hour is long and glorious—plan your shoots around it.
- Gear: Bring a versatile zoom (24–70mm) and a wide-angle for landscapes. A fast prime (35mm or 50mm) is great for street scenes. Don't forget a tripod for low-light shots in the citadel.
- Permits: Most public spaces are fine for photography, but for commercial shoots or tripod use in museums, check ahead. Anıtkabir requires a permit for professional equipment.
Beyond the Lens: Autumn Flavors and Culture
Photography works up an appetite. And autumn is prime season for Ankara's food scene. The city's markets overflow with quinces, pomegranates, and chestnuts. Try kestane kebap—roasted chestnuts sold from street carts—or ayva tatlısı, a quince dessert slow-cooked with cloves and served with kaymak (clotted cream).
For a sit-down meal, head to the old quarter of Hamamönü, where restored Ottoman houses now house cafes and restaurants. I had a memorable lunch of kuzu tandır (slow-roasted lamb) at a place with a courtyard vine turning red. The owner, a retired photographer himself, gave me tips on where to catch the best sunset.
And don't miss the Ankara Film Festival in October—it's a great way to meet locals and maybe catch a documentary about the region.
Getting Around and Staying Connected
Ankara is easy to navigate. The metro will get you to most central spots, but for the citadel and Eymir Lake, you'll want a car or taxi. Ride-hailing apps like BiTaksi work well. I bought an AnkaraKart (a rechargeable transit card) for buses and metro—it's cheap and convenient.
For internet, a local SIM from Turkcell or Vodafone is your best bet; coverage is solid even in the citadel.
Why Autumn Is the Perfect Time for Ankara
Summer in Ankara is hot and dusty; winter is cold and gray. Autumn is the city's golden hour—literally and metaphorically. The light is soft, the crowds are thin, and the trees put on a show that rivals any gallery. Whether you're a professional photographer or just someone with a smartphone and an eye for beauty, fall in Ankara will reward you.
So come in October. Bring a jacket, a camera, and a willingness to wander. And if you see a guy cursing under his breath while wiping leaves off his lens—that's probably me. Say hello.